Between Tradition and Modernity:
Exploring Cultural Landscapes in Senegal and The Gambia

This Pillow Pick was written by Jeffrey Page and published on February 7, 2025.

Jeffrey Page is an Emmy Award-nominated director and choreographer, and a long-time collaborator, friend, and trustee of Jacob’s Pillow. He is embarking on a four-month research project to West Africa to uncover the embedded ‘technologies’ of rhythm, movement, and community inherent in the rich tapestry of African dance and music traditions. Each month, he’s sharing an update from his travels here on the Pillow blog. 

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Introduction

Welcoming Abéné 

Nestled on the Atlantic coast, Abéné is a village within the rural community of Kafountine in the vibrant Ziguinchor Region of Basse Casamance, southwest Senegal. This region serves as a living museum, showcasing the rich tapestry of Mandingo, Diola, and Fula heritages, all woven together with modern influences. Known for its idyllic landscapes and deep-rooted musical and dance traditions, Abéné attracts scholars, artists, and travelers from around the globe, drawn by its unspoiled vibrancy.

Purpose of the Visit 

My journey to this cultural bastion was twofold: to surprise my dear friend, Abasse Badji, who embodies the spirit of Abéné, and to immerse myself deeply in the local traditions that have long intrigued and inspired me as a choreographer and cultural researcher. This trip provided an opportunity to reconnect with a friend and engage intimately with the rhythms and rituals that define this part of Senegal. Additionally, my travels extended beyond Senegal to The Gambia, enriching my experience with the diverse cultural landscape of Janjan Bureh and its profound traditions.

Themes of Exploration 

As I navigate my days in Abéné and venture onward to The Gambia, this narrative will unfold along three primary themes:

1. Cultural Immersion: From spontaneous drum circles in Abéné to sacred rituals under the Banta Woro and witnessing the vibrant Kankurang ceremony in Janjan Bureh, I explore the intimate embrace of West African cultural practices and reveal how they are preserved and celebrated.
2. Evolution of Traditions: Observing both the guardians of tradition and the innovators in Senegal and The Gambia, I reflect on how these ancestral practices adapt in the face of modernity and globalization. What do these changes say about the broader cultural identity?
3. Personal Impact: This journey is also a profound personal quest. It examines how deep immersion affects and transforms my understanding of culture and self, challenging and enriching my perspectives as an African American artist connected to a diaspora with deep roots in these African soils.

I invite you to discover West Africa’s enduring soul through these lenses. This journey promises insights into a culture but also a reflection on the interconnectedness of our global community.

Part I: The Surprise in Abéné

Arrival and Surprise 

The journey from Cap Skirring to Abéné is a vivid passage through cascading landscapes and bustling market towns, each mile closer to Abéné weaving through the dense tapestry of Casamance’s lush scenery. Flanked by baobab and acacia trees, the road serves as a living corridor into the heart of Senegal’s cultural diversity. Arriving in Abéné, I planned a surprise visit to meet my friend Abasse Badji, who was unaware of the exact timing of my arrival. The reunion was punctuated with Abasse’s joyous exclamations and spontaneous dance, a testament to the spontaneity that marks many of life’s best moments in Senegal. This surprise set the tone for my stay and rekindled the deep bonds of friendship that transcend time and distance.

First Impressions 

Abéné greets visitors with an orchestra of sounds—from the rhythmic pounding of millet by the women in the courtyards to the melodious calls of the pied crows overhead. The village, though small, pulsates with the energy of its inhabitants, who move with an ease that speaks to a deep-rooted connection to this land. The streets are alive with children playing football, artisans crafting intricate woodwork, and elders making tea and sharing stories under the shade of neem trees. This immediate immersion into the village’s daily rhythm painted a vivid picture of a community where tradition and continuity are the backbones of everyday life.

Reflection 

The warmth of my welcome in Abéné—marked by unabashed smiles and open arms—offered a profound insight into the essence of Senegalese hospitality. This hospitality goes beyond mere politeness; it embodies ‘Teranga,’ a Wolof word that translates to hospitality but connotes a more profound philosophy of sharing and community. The emotional resonance of this welcome was a powerful reminder of the universal human desire for connection and belonging. It revealed that in The Casamance Region of Senegal, a guest is not just a visitor but a part of the community, however brief their stay might be.

GRIOT Project: January Travelogue; Jeffrey Page video

Part II: Immersion in Tradition

Training with Masters 

Upon settling into the rhythms of Abéné, I embarked on a transformative learning journey under the tutelage of local dance and music masters. These sessions began with an introduction through local contacts, often friends of friends or acquaintances of Abasse, who vouched for my genuine interest and respect for their art. Each meeting started with an exchange of stories—a ritual that helps establish mutual respect and understanding. Training occurred in secluded spots, sometimes under the vast canopy of a baobab or in the sandy courtyard of a master’s home, where the only audience was the occasional goat or chicken wandering through.

The masters, some elders with decades of experience in their craft, shared the physical techniques, stories, and histories behind each movement and rhythm. These training sessions were rigorous, often stretching for hours under the hot sun, with live drumming providing a relentless soundtrack. The physical intensity of the training was matched by the intellectual and spiritual depth of the knowledge being imparted, making each session both a physical challenge and a profound learning experience.

Cultural Exchange 

The interaction between the traditional teachings I received and my background as an African American was a rich dialogue of movement and meaning. As I learned the steps and songs, I shared my interpretations and experiences, finding common ground and noting differences. This exchange was not just about dance and music; it was a conversation about heritage, identity, and the diaspora’s longing for connection to its roots.

This cultural exchange highlighted the complex dance between tradition and personal expression. For instance, in one session, a master drummer challenged me to incorporate a traditional rhythm into a piece I had choreographed back home. The result was a fusion that honored both the conventional form and my contemporary interpretation, embodying the ongoing evolution of cultural expressions.

Reflection 

As I delved deeper into these traditions, I often pondered the delicate balance between learning and respecting cultural boundaries. These reflections were particularly poignant in moments when I was invited to participate in rituals or practices that were sacred and deeply meaningful to the community. I grappled with questions of appropriation versus appreciation and the responsibility of carrying forward a cultural legacy that I am deeply connected to but alienated from. 

This learning journey was a humbling reminder of the importance of approaching cultural exchange with humility and openness. It underscored the importance of listening more than speaking, observing more than performing, and appreciating the privilege of being welcomed into a space where ancient traditions are still alive and cherished.

Part III: Deepening Cultural Connections

Sacred Spaces

In the heart of Abéné lies the Banta Woro, an extraordinary natural monument that embodies the spiritual and communal life of the village. Known locally as “the protector of the village,” Banta Woro is not just one tree but six trees that have grown intertwined over nearly 5,000 years, symbolizing unity and strength. This sacred site, revered by the community, serves as a living testament to the Mandingo belief in the interconnectivity of life and nature. It is a place where the past converges with the present, where ancestors are honored, and community bonds are reinforced through shared rituals and ceremonies.

A Spiritual Experience

My visit to the Banta Woro tree was a profoundly spiritual journey. Abasse carefully arranged it to ensure respect for and adherence to local traditions. As we approached the site, the path led us through a dense thicket, opening suddenly to the clearing where Banta Woro stood majestic and imposing.

The rituals began with offerings of kola nuts and libations of local palm wine, poured at the base of the tree as prayers in Mandingo filled the air. The atmosphere was charged with a palpable reverence, and the rustling leaves seemed to whisper ancestral secrets. Women from the village, designated as the keepers of Banta Woro, joined in with songs that spoke of fertility, protection, and gratitude. The ritual was not just a spiritual act but a communal gathering that reinforced the villagers’ connection to their heritage and each other.

We rose at 5 a.m. the following day and returned to Banta Woro. As we approached, the branches above us stirred with life, hosting monkeys that leaped from limb to limb in a display of wild freedom. In the local culture, seeing monkeys is often considered a sign of good fortune, and their presence that morning felt like a lucky omen, further sanctifying our visit. This breathtaking encounter emphasized the tree’s role as a central, living part of Abéné’s ecosystem and felt like a blessing from the natural world.

The older women of the village then guided us into the heart of this sacred grove, instructing us to remove our shoes and follow them into the tree’s hollow. There, enveloped by the ancient roots, they bathed us and prayed over us in a ritual that was as cleansing spiritually as it was physically. Their directive to leave without looking back echoed the myth of Orpheus and Eurydice, underscoring the sacredness of the moment and the solemnity of the rituals we were privileged to partake in.

Reflection

As these women bathed and prayed over me, bearing witness to the rituals and feeling the energy of Banta Woro, I pondered the profound role of sacred sites like this in local spiritual life and community cohesion. These spaces are vital for their spiritual significance and as communal identity and continuity vessels. They offer a tangible link to the past and a shared space for the community to come together in celebration and reverence.

In many ways, the Banta Woro tree and similar sacred sites serve as anchors for the community, grounding them in their traditions while providing a shared space that strengthens communal bonds. These places remind us of the deep human need to connect with something greater than ourselves—whether it be nature, ancestors, or community—and highlight the role of the natural world in spiritual and communal well-being.

Part IV: Broader Impacts and Observations

Cultural Festivals and Ceremonies 

After my enriching stay in Abéné, I journeyed to Janjan Bureh, a town steeped in history on the Gambia River’s Janjanbureh Island, formerly MacCarthy Island. Here, I witnessed the Kankurang—an intense initiatory rite marking the transition of village boys into manhood, deeply rooted in Mandingo traditions and widespread among other ethnic groups in the region.

This ceremony is a vibrant and profound cultural expression involving masked figures, known as Kankurangs, adorned in red bark fibers and wielding machetes. These figures are believed to embody the spirits of ancestors, tasked with cleansing the community of evil influences and safeguarding the initiates. The ceremony commenced at dusk, and the village converged to welcome a fleeting sight of the boys who had been secluded from their families for several weeks. The atmosphere was electric, filled with excitement, fear, and reverence as the Kankurang made their dramatic entrance. The sound of their machetes clanging in the dim light struck a primal chord among the onlookers, underscoring that this was not just a performance but a living tradition that binds the community through shared heritage and collective values.

Community and Identity 

In Janjan Bureh, the Kankurang festival is pivotal in reinforcing community bonds and shaping individual identities. These ceremonies are communal milestones that celebrate crucial life transitions and communal history. They preserve tradition and assert a communal identity that resonates deeply with all villagers. This ceremony is a significant rite of passage for the initiates, marking their transition into adult responsibilities and roles within the village.

During the event, I was particularly moved by a profoundly tender scene in which about 65 young boys were bathed by their older brothers in a display of care and tenderness. This gentle interaction, starkly contrasting to the rugged rituals that followed, vividly portrayed familial bonds and communal responsibility. After the bathing, the cleansed boys, dressed in white tunics, were nourished by the village elders and leaders, a prelude to the dramatic entrance of the Kankurang.

As the procession made its way from the sacred grove into the town, women—mothers, sisters, aunts, grandmothers—lined the town’s borders, their drums beating in sync with their songs and dances, creating a crescendo of communal celebration. The boys’ reunion with the women in their lives from whom they had been removed for this rite of passage was nothing short of electric. Emotions surged as the community converged in a dance that seemed to pulse through the very soil of Janjan Bureh.

Reflection 

Participating in the Kankurang ceremony enhanced my understanding of cultural authenticity and engagement. The vibrant atmosphere, the heartfelt moments before the ceremony, and the deep community involvement revealed the complexities of cultural tourism versus cultural immersion. Experiencing this ceremony in a country other than Abéné made me reflect on where to draw the line between respectfully engaging with culture and unintentionally commodifying it.

These experiences also prompted reconsidering what constitutes “authentic” cultural practice in a world where cultures are increasingly blending. Is authenticity strictly adherence to tradition, or does it also encompass the evolution of these practices as they absorb new interpretations and influences?

Part V: Philosophical Musings on Culture and Identity

Cultural Commodification

Throughout my travels in Senegal and The Gambia, I observed firsthand the complex interplay between preserving and adapting traditional cultures for broader consumption. In areas frequented by tourists, I witnessed traditional dances and musical performances that, while visually spectacular, sometimes felt staged for an audience far removed from their original spiritual and communal contexts. This raises crucial questions about the balance between sharing culture with the world and maintaining the sacredness of these traditions within local communities.

The commodification of culture extends beyond mere commercial transactions. It’s about how cultural practices are packaged and modified to meet the expectations of an outside audience. For instance, deeply spiritual and private rituals are sometimes altered to become “tourist-friendly,” potentially stripping them of their genuine significance and inadvertently transforming practitioners into performers for an external gaze.

Gatekeeping in Cultural Practices

In places rich in tradition, like Abéné and Janjan Bureh, gatekeeping plays a significant role in determining who participates in and represents a culture. These gatekeepers—often elders or individuals appointed by community consensus—protect the integrity of the traditions and decide how and to whom these traditions are taught. They ensure that the lineage and purity of traditions are maintained, but this can also result in exclusivity, where potentially valuable new interpretations or cross-cultural exchanges are limited.

This gatekeeping dynamic becomes even more complex when outsiders engage with these cultural spaces. It prompts an evaluation of what it means to authentically learn and participate in traditions not of one’s direct heritage. While gatekeeping can serve as a necessary safeguard for cultural preservation, it can also become a tool for exploitation by outsiders to monopolize and profit from unique cultural knowledge.

The Ethical Implications of Cultural Exchange

As an African American, my engagement with the cultures of Senegal and The Gambia is both an act of reconnection and a navigation of the space between being an insider and an outsider. Appreciation turns into appropriation when cultural elements are taken out of context and used for one’s benefit or entertainment without proper respect for or understanding of their profound significance. This raises ethical questions about how outsiders engage with cultures we admire but are not inherently a part of.

I have witnessed instances where foreigners siphon information and ideas about cultural practices to profit back home. Such actions underscore the need for establishing ethical guidelines that include community consent, reciprocal relationships, and transparency in the use of cultural knowledge. This approach ensures that cultural exchange uplifts and evolves the culture authentically and respectfully rather than reducing it to a commodity.

Reflective Insights

These reflections have deepened my understanding of the responsibilities associated with cultural exchange. It is not enough to learn and enjoy; one must also consider the impact of one’s engagement on the culture and strive to support and preserve its essence authentically and respectfully. As we continue exploring and participating in cultural practices, let us commit to approaches that honor and uplift the communities we learn from, ensuring that our interactions contribute positively to the cultural tapestry we deeply admire.

Conclusion: Lessons Learned and Paths Forward

Summarizing Key Insights

This journey through Senegal and The Gambia has been a profound exploration of cultural roots and their expressions in the modern world. From the intimate drum circles and sacred rituals beneath the Banta Woro in Abéné to the vibrant and deeply symbolic Kankurang ceremony in Janjan Bureh, each experience has uniquely illuminated how communities hold onto and celebrate their heritage amidst the relentless tides of globalization.

These cultures demonstrate remarkable resilience. They ingeniously preserve their rituals and customs while adapting them to resonate with the broader, evolving world. This delicate balance between preservation and adaptation underscores insiders’ and outsiders’ need for respect, understanding, and active participation.

Reflecting on Cultural Exchange and Personal Growth

My understanding of cultural exchange as a dynamic interaction has deepened significantly throughout this trip. Engaging with these cultures has emphasized the importance of approaching with humility and a genuine willingness to learn—not merely to experience. As an African American reconnecting with ancestral lands and practices, this journey has also been a significant personal growth, prompting reflections on my identity and its intersections with broader diaspora narratives.

The realizations about the complexities of cultural tourism versus immersive engagement, alongside the impacts of being perceived as an insider versus an outsider, have reshaped my perceptions of authentic cultural engagement. Genuine cultural exchange involves a balanced give-and-take, requiring us to listen as much as we speak and to support the preservation of heritage while embracing its evolution.

Call to Action

As we navigate our global village, I encourage you, my readers, to reflect on how you engage with different cultures. Are you an observer, a participant, or a supporter? How do you ensure that your interactions are respectful and mutually enriching? I urge you to embrace the responsibilities that come with cultural exchange. Let’s approach other cultures with a student’s curiosity and a guest’s respect, aiming to learn and grow from every encounter.

In our increasingly interconnected world, let us also advocate for the protection and vibrant celebration of cultural diversity. Support local artists, participate in cultural education programs, and promote initiatives that help communities maintain their traditions despite globalization.

Through thoughtful engagement and open-hearted exchange, we can all contribute to a world that values and preserves its rich mosaic of cultures. Let us move forward with a commitment to discover, cherish, and uphold the diverse traditions that make our world so beautifully complex.